Garlic and Thyme Roasted Mushrooms

Mushrooms are the side dish I make when the rest of the meal is doing something complicated and I want one tray that looks after itself. They go into the oven, they come out concentrated and browned at the edges, and there is almost nothing to think about in between.

The two rules are do not wash them and do not crowd them. Mushrooms are mostly water to begin with, so a rinse under the tap and they will never brown properly. Brush the dirt off with a cloth instead, and spread them over two tins if one looks tight.

Garlic and thyme go in partway through rather than at the start. Sliced garlic at 220C for half an hour is burnt garlic, and burnt garlic will take the entire tray down with it. Ten minutes at the end is plenty for it to turn golden and sweet.

Lemon zest right at the end lifts the whole thing and stops it feeling heavy. This serves six alongside something else, though Matt has a large appetite and would tell you that is optimistic. Any left over are very good on toast the next morning.